For having such a colorful fashion reputation, the roots of the Pucci fashion empire are remarkably non-fashion’y. A skiing enthusiast, Naples-native & aristocrat Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento first whipped up a set of slim, tapering pants and parka with hood for himself – later versions of which ended up in Harper’s Bazaar and on the racks at Lord & Taylor. While on leave in 1949 from his job as a military pilot, Pucci decided it was time to do something about the lack of cool resort fashions his chi chi pals had to choose from. And with an easy-breezy capsule collection of colorful blouses and Capri pants – the Prince of Prints was born.
Influenced by the nature and architecture he found himself inspired by on his globetrotting jaunts to exotic locations such as Africa, India & Bali. "Pucci started Italian ready-to-wear in 1947, when Italy was living a postwar renaissance based on fashion and film," Jaqueline Ceresoli, a fashion history instructor at Politecnico in Milan, and fashion school IED, recently told WWD. "He represented all the Italian codes that the Americans thrived for: more accessible prices compared to couture, color, quality, innovative fabrics and craftsmanship. Not to mention his noble roots." Agrees Emilio’s daughter Laudomia: "The historical period is fundamental for my dad's success. No one really talks about the Fifties, but they were the strongest years in Italy from the movies on. They summarize the story of people that had survived the war and lived through anything. They were happy to start up again. It was an explosion of youth, towed by America and its Marshall Plan.”
At his height of popularity, A-list clients like Marilyn Monroe, Lauren Bacall, and Jackie Kennedy were widely seen & photographed in his designs, and 1954 saw the introduction of the iconic silk jersey dress for which the house is still famed today. However, in the 70s, the luster seemed to fade. "There was a new generation of women. It was after 1968 [the student's revolution in Europe], jeans and [women's] liberation," says Laudomia. "My father understood that period, he had no complex to a strong woman, but the result of that liberated woman was not his woman. He had a problem with anything that didn't exalt a women's femininity. Minimalism, black and power dressing weren't up his alley."
Pucci died in 1992 (he was 78) and in 2000, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton acquired a 67 percent stake, and bringing on a revolving door of design talent, including Julio Espada, Christian Lacroix, and now Matthew Williamson.. According to insiders, annual sales are in the 60 million euro range ($81 million); Pucci has 31 stores around the world, licensing agreements with Skis Rossignol SA & Marchon (eyewear), Wolford (tights), Veuve Clicquot Champagne, Adidas sneakers, Omas (ink pens), and Guerlain (makeup). Over the past three years, the brand has actively embarked on one-off stints, including special packaging for Veuve Clicquot Champagne, colorful tights with Wolford, an Adidas sneaker, ink pens by Omas and color cosmetics with Guerlain.
Laudomia, however, still maintains a presence in the company, helping edit the color palette of the collections and revamping vintage prints from the archives. "I like prints but I like solids," she notes. "What we're doing today, though not clearly understood by the American press, is very clever. We hadn't seen black and white at Pucci for some time, and I think that for spring Matthew did it in a modern way with silver. It's the Pucci DNA brought into today. It's sexy, young, fun and chic.”
Lesley Scott - Fashion & Lifestyle expert Lesley Scott is the New York City-based Editor-in-Chief of the Fashiontribes.com magazines. Her ...
